Reference

Hiking Basic Knowledge

Difficulty levels

Mountain and alpine hikes are commonly graded T1–T6, a scale describing trail condition, exposure and the experience required.

Clothing

Keep these strategies in mind when putting together the ideal hiking outfit:

Layering basics

To understand how to layer clothing for outdoor activities, it helps to know the function of each layer:

• Base layer (next-to-skin layer): moves sweat away from your skin
• Mid layer (insulating layer): retains body heat to keep you warm
• Outer layer (shell): protects you against wind and rain

Even if you don't wear all three layers at the start, it's worth bringing them along every time — you can take a layer off if you get warm, but you can't put on layers you didn't bring.

Layering examples for cold, rainy and hot weather

We're often asked how to layer for specific weather conditions. Weather-based suggestions can ignore important factors like activity level and personal metabolism, but the examples below suit a hypothetical person who doesn't run especially hot or cold, heading out on a moderate half-day hike:

• Cold weather layers: Medium-weight polyester base layer top and bottom; synthetic-insulated jacket; medium-weight fleece pants; waterproof/breathable rain jacket and pants.
• Rainy weather layers (cool temperatures): Lightweight polyester base layer top and bottom; light fleece jacket; synthetic hiking pants; lightweight waterproof/breathable rain jacket and pants (with plenty of venting).
• Hot weather layers: Polyester underwear and a short-sleeve synthetic shirt; convertible nylon hiking pants; a light windbreaker.

For every layer you can choose from dozens of alternatives — the key is to pick options that best suit your destination, activity and budget. Take time to adjust your layers as conditions change: shed the shell once rain and wind stop, add a mid layer if the hiking itself isn't keeping you warm enough, and many people put on a mid and/or outer layer at rest stops to avoid cooling down.

Base layer: moisture management

The base layer, worn directly against your skin, moves sweat away from your body — also called "wicking". In cool or cold weather, moisture-wicking base layers are essential to keep your skin dry, which helps prevent chills or, worse, hypothermia. Common fabrics include synthetics like polyester and nylon, or natural fibers like merino wool and silk; each differs slightly in wicking, drying speed, odor resistance and durability, so personal preference often decides. Weights typically range from lightweight to heavyweight (sometimes even "ultralight" or "expedition weight") — heavier fabrics tend to run warmer, though warmth isn't the base layer's primary job. In hot weather, long underwear may not sound appealing, but dry skin is more comfortable in any conditions; look for summer shirts that wick moisture, and note that cotton, best avoided in winter, can be fine on a super dry, hot summer day.

Mid layer: insulation

The insulating mid layer helps retain the heat your body generates — the more effectively it traps that heat, the warmer you'll be. As with base layers, there's a wide range of synthetic and natural materials; thicker or puffier layers are generally warmer, though the efficiency of the insulation matters too. Common choices include polyester fleece (light, mid and heavyweight — often marketed as 100, 200 and 300 weight), which stays warm even when wet and dries quickly and breathes well, though wind can cut through it, so a shell layer is needed on top; down jackets, which compress well for easy packing and offer the best warmth-to-weight ratio (rated by fill power, roughly 450–900), though down loses its insulating power when wet; and synthetic insulated jackets, which don't compress as well as down but keep insulating even when wet, making them a popular choice in rainy conditions.

Outer layer: rain and wind protection

The outer layer (or shell) protects you from wind, rain and snow, ranging from high-performance mountaineering jackets to simple windbreakers. Most allow at least some sweat to evaporate and carry a durable water-repellent (DWR) coating that beads water off the fabric surface. The shell is critical in stormy weather, since wind and water reaching your inner layers can quickly cause serious chilling. Shells generally fall into a few categories: waterproof/breathable jackets, the most functional (and most expensive) choice, best for stormy conditions, with pricier models usually keeping you drier and lasting longer; water-resistant/breathable jackets, better suited to drizzle, wind and high activity levels, cheaper and typically made from tightly-woven nylon or polyester that blocks light wind and rain; softshell jackets, which prioritize breathability, often combining stretch fabrics with light rain and wind protection plus mild insulation, effectively merging two layers into one; and waterproof/non-breathable shells, basic shells suited to rainy days with little or no activity (e.g. fishing or sightseeing), typically coated nylon that's water- and windproof but will leave your inner layers damp with sweat if you exert yourself while wearing one.

Packing and wearing your backpack

Pack smart

There are really two important rules when packing a backpack:

1. Keep the heaviest items closest to the center of your back.
2. Keep items you'll need urgently during the hike within easy reach.

Why does this matter? A poorly packed backpack distributes weight badly: the pack's center of gravity (wherever the heaviest items sit) ends up far from your body's center of gravity (the middle of your back). This constantly pulls you off balance, causing extra fatigue — and a tired body losing its balance on dangerous terrain can turn into a genuinely life-threatening situation.

• Bulky but relatively light items, such as a sleeping bag (or just a liner), go at the bottom of the pack — it's usually only needed at the end of the day. Pack it, along with your spare clothes, into a waterproof dry sack, compress it, and place it at the bottom.
• If cold or rainy weather is expected, keep your power bank in the same dry sack so it stays dry and the clothes keep it warm.
• If your pack has a separate, easily reachable lower compartment, that's a good place for your puffy jacket and/or rain jacket — instantly accessible without weighing the pack down.
• Camera gear is often the heaviest item for photographers on a hike — keep it in a camera cube close to your back, around the middle of the pack, so it throws you off balance as little as possible.
• If you carry water in a bladder rather than a bottle, the roughly 2 kg of liquid also belongs close to your back, in the compartment designed for it. A bottle can go in the side pockets, though that's less ideal for weight distribution.
• Light but frequently needed items — hat, gloves, cap, headlamp, sunglasses — belong in the top pocket or outer mesh pockets: they weigh little but need quick access. Mesh/elastic pockets are also great for airing out wet clothes on the move so they dry faster.
• Never pack the first-aid kit at the bottom — you never know when you'll need it, and emptying the whole pack in an emergency is not an option.
• Small items like a knife, energy bars, a microfiber cloth and tissues are best kept in the hip-belt pockets, reachable even while walking.

So many straps and buckles — what are they for?

Beginner hikers often get tangled in all the straps, or try to ignore them, assuming any backpack will fit well enough and that adjusting it isn't worth the effort for a short walk. Experienced hikers know that a properly fitted and adjusted backpack saves a lot of unnecessary fatigue. A typical modern hiking backpack has 2 pairs of straps and 2 pairs of adjustable buckles:

1. Lift the pack onto your back with loosened straps. If it's a heavy trekking pack, resting it on one knee first reduces the lift — slide one arm through the shoulder strap, hold the top handle with the other hand, and help lift it into place.
2. Once it's on your back, pull down both shoulder straps (the ones under your arms) until the pack no longer rests on your backside. The pack's center of gravity should align with the center of your back.
3. Buckle and tighten the hip belt: it shouldn't squeeze your lunch, but it should feel noticeably snug — this takes a significant load off your shoulders.
4. Buckle the chest strap: roughly mid-chest for men, around the breastbone for women. It doesn't need to be very tight, just enough that the pack can't swing sideways on your back, reducing the risk of losing your balance.
5. Load-lifter straps (the small straps over your shoulders): pull the top of the pack closer to the shoulder straps, and so closer to your body. Tighten until it's noticeably closer to your center of mass without being uncomfortable — this adds stability and further reduces the risk of being thrown off balance.

Using trekking poles correctly

A trekking pole is a helpful companion in several ways — it:

• takes load off your legs while walking, especially helpful on ascents
• increases cardio effort through more varied movement
• gives you something to lean on if you stumble
• adds safety when descending a slope
• reduces slipping risk on old snow, and can even be used to check snow depth

Adjusting the length

Grip the pole with your shoulder relaxed and your elbow at a right angle — that's the ideal hand height, so adjust the pole length to match. Some poles have a fixed length (mostly ski and orienteering poles); if so, buy one already at the right length, though these are less suited to hiking and trekking.

Pole materials are typically traditional wood, aluminum, or carbon (carbon-fiber epoxy composite). Traditional wood poles are fairly heavy and not very practical, but better than nothing in a pinch. Aluminum poles are affordably priced and perfectly fine for the average hiker. Carbon poles are an investment in the hobby — lighter and better at absorbing vibration, but you'll need to dig deeper into your pocket at the shop.

Beyond fixed-length poles, there are also folding and telescopic versions: telescopic poles handle load better, while folding poles pack smaller — really a matter of personal preference.

How to use it on the trail

• On flat terrain or a gentle incline: use it opposite to your feet, so diagonally you always have two stable points, front and back.
• On a steep ascent: plant both poles ahead of you at once, so you can pull yourself up with both arms and take significant load off your legs.
• On a steep descent: plant both poles ahead of you at once, leaning on them protects your knees, and if you slip or stumble, two poles add stability.
• Traversing a steep slope: plant the pole into the ground at a 30–45° angle to lean on, helping if you slip or stumble. Even without planting it, keep the pole on the uphill side, never the downhill/ravine side — if you slide towards the drop, you'll have something to hold onto instead of sliding down together with the pole.
• With a single pole: everything works the same, just with less assistance — plus a bonus sense of being a wizard with a staff. On an ascent keep the pole on the side opposite your leading leg; on a descent, keep it on the same side, so you can lean on it as you lower your weight onto the downhill leg in case of a slip.

Source for the clothing chapters: Rei.com